Okay, these are the coolest brake lines we have found so far, but that doesn't mean we won't keep looking. They are an excellent solution for making your own stainless steel brake and clutch lines. Anyone can build a set on their own with no special tools or skills. If you know which way to turn a screw you know enough to build these lines. And, since you build them yourself, you can experiment with different routing before committing to a line length. Or, if you are going for the gold, they can be routed through the bars or frame. Just add the length of brake line you need to your cart and head over to our banjo fittings page to pick out the right banjos.
This system is designed and manufactured by Goodridge, a long standing industry leader in stainless steel hoses and fittings. They have been rigorously tested and are rated to 300° Fahrenheit and 10,000 psi (typical pressure in a motorcycle brake system is ~ 800 psi and maximum pressure is still below 2,000 psi).
In addition to being a great DIY solution, these are also very high performance lines. These lines are smaller diameter than most which is an advantage over standard stainless steel upgrades, and is night and day compared to stock lines. It may be counterintuitive, but the smaller bore of these lines will improve the feel of your brakes. This is a case where bigger is not better. Think about it, to make the brakes work you need to transfer pressure, not volume. So the smaller diameter means there is less fluid volume in the line. This gives an improvement in feel because there is less mass in the system to attenuate the sensation at the lever, giving the rider more feedback about what is happening at the wheel.
- Better feel: Less fluid transfers pressure faster
- Smaller bend radius: Makes it easier to route in tight spaces
- Easier to bleed the system: Fluid velocity is higher in the line and makes it easier to remove bubbles
- Economical: These are less expensive than any other solution (DIY or prefab) we've found
- Easy to build: No special tools, just cut the line and thread on the ends
- No compression parts: No need to replace ferules when re-using fittings
The bottom line: these are simple, safe, effective, economical, easy to build, look great, and perform better than anything else.
Don't forget the banjo fittings and banjo bolts, if you need them.
- AN -2
- Smooth bore PFTE liner
- Stainless steel overbraid
- Black or Clear PVC outer cover
- Tested to 10,000 psi
- Tested to 300° fahrenheit
- Compatible with all types of brake fluid
- Cut hose to correct length using cable cutters, side cutter or a similar tool that will make a clean, straight cut.
- Slightly flare the inner PTFE lining of the hose using a mandrel or similar tool to insure the lining is circular and will accept the tapered tail of the fitting.
- BEFORE SLIDING THE COLLAR NUT ONTO THE HOSE, insert the tapered end of the fitting into the hose and rotate 3-4 turns into the hose to form a thread.
- Rotate the fitting anti-clockwise 3-4 turns and remove.
- Before you are able to seat the hose into the collar, the PVC coating first needs to be trimmed. Carefully trim to ensure the brake line bottoms out in the collar, but does not show a gap between collar nut and PVC coating. Make sure only the PVC coating is cut and not the stainless brake line.
- Slide the collar over the hose, ensuring the hose is fully seated into the collar.
- Fit the fitting into the installed collar, tightening each fitting until proper clocking has been accomplished. This can generally be done by hand using a wrench to hold the collar nut. DO NOT tighten the fittings against the collar nut, there should be a small gap. The distance from the shoulder of the collar nut to the base of the installed fitting should be about 1/16" or 1.0mm-1.5mm.
Please fee free to call us at 512-401-3484 with any questions about assembly.